Wednesday, January 25, 2006

A Very Special Invitation


Jan 22, 2006


Dear Friends:


Stop everything!

Pack your bags!

We are going to Patagonia!

I’ve had it with politicians, the economy and the price of gas. To hell with Venezuela’s “pretty revolution”. Today is my birthday and I’ve decided that three years without a serious fishing trip is more than I can bear. So I am extending this invitation to a very special group of friends and acquaintances to come with me to Argentina’s Patagonia for some serious trout fishing, unlimited story telling and more wine that you may want to remember.

It’s time to think about flies, rods, duffle bags, waders and tango. Find that old lucky fishing hat. Give your wife a new credit card or take her on that cruise she always wanted to go. Anything you need to do to get permission from the boss. Open those fishing catalogs, dust off the old wading boots and prepare for a trip to remember.

I have planned and all-inclusive trip to the upper region of Patagonia. Nothing but the best! Hotels, lodges, transportation, rivers, guides…. I have used my direct experience of 18 years of continuous trips to this region and my contacts and friends in the area to put together a fishing experience that will become part of you cherished memories for the future.

I hope you will seriously consider accepting this invitation to a memorable experience. I have chosen the group carefully amongst people that will be congenial and enjoy sharing quality time and meeting new friends. Should you have a close friend or acquaintance of similar interests that you may wish to invite to come along, please let me know and we will try to accommodate.

Very special places and people await us. Great rivers and scenery, fantastic natural surrounding and ever greater fishing. Begin with me what, I am sure, will become a yearly pilgrimage as has happened to some of you already.

Best regards,
Rafael

Program


You need to arrive in Buenos Aires (BA) on the morning of November 25. That is, the Saturday immediately following Thanksgiving. So pack a turkey sandwich, miss a few boring ball games and be in Miami or New York to take the night flight to Buenos Aires on Friday Nov. 24. We plan to be back in the States on Tuesday morning Dec. 5th.

Here is the plan:

Friday Nov. 24 Departure US - Individuals catch the evening flight to Buenos Aires out of Miami or NY, whichever is more convenient. If possible try to be on AA flight 909 leaving Miami at 20:40 or AA flight 955 leaving NY Kennedy at 22:10. This will make it easier for pick up at Ezeiza Airport in BA where you will arrive in the morning.

Saturday Nov. 25 Arrival Ezeiza Airport in Buenos Aires – You will be picked up and transferred to the Hotel. After some rest, you will have a free afternoon to sightsee. For those that are up for it, we will probably get together for lunch. In the evening, we will have a welcome dinner in Buenos Aires before a much needed night of rest.

Sunday Nov. 26 Departure BA – Chapelco (San Martín de los Andes) – Transfer from Hotel to Jorge Newberry Airport in Buenos Aires to catch flight to Chapelco Airport serving San Martín de los Andes and Junín de los Andes also known as Argentina’s Trout Capital. We will be picked up by San Huberto Lodge personnel and transferred to the lodge (Aprox. 1 hr) Depending on arrival time we will have time for some afternoon fishing and then get treated to a real argentine Asado (grill).

Monday Nov. 27 to Saturday Dec. 2 – Fishing based out of San Huberto Lodge. Specific plans depend on weather and stream conditions. We will have access to fishing private waters on the Malleo River and tributaries, Lake Tromen, Chimehuin River, Aluminé River, Currué River. These are some of the best trout waters anywhere in the world.

Sunday Dec. 3rd Depart Chapelco to BA – transfer to hotel and then to dinner and tango show.

Monday Dec. 4th Shopping and visiting Buenos Aires and then transfer to Ezeiza Airport in early evening to catch the flights back to our respective origins.

Accommodations


In Buenos Aires, we will be staying at the Emperador Hotel, a luxury hotel in an excellent location (http://www.hotel-emperador.com.ar/)

In Patagonia we will be the guests of the Olsen family at San Huberto Lodge (http://www.sanhubertolodge.com.ar/sh_home_en.html)

Spouses and Non-fishing Companions


Non-fishing spouses are welcome but please bear in mind that we are going to a choice fishing lodge where the main activity (and the pricing) is centered around fishing prime private trout water. The scenery is beautiful but non-fishing activities are limited: horseback riding, trekking, visits to towns nearby (1 – 3 hrs. away), walking, photography and bird watching. If your spouse does not like nature, solitude, reading a good book, painting and appreciating the sounds of springtime in the lower Andes, this may not be for her. Of course, you can always leave her in Buenos Aires with ample space in your credit card.


Actually, there are several great alternatives that you can consider and that can be planned after the fishing part of the trip: visiting the San Carlos de Bariloche resort area, crossing the Andes by boat to the Pacific at Puerto Montt in Chile is a trip she won’t forget, sightseeing the nearby area of lakes and mountains, spending some time is Buenos Aires and many others possibilities can be explored. I will be happy to work with each of you to make recommendations and specific plans if you are interested.

Prices


The package includes:

· Hotel, lodge and meals including wine.
· All transfers to and from hotels and airport
· All tips to guides, hotel personnel, maids, kitchen helpers, bag handlers, etc.
· Ticket from BA to Chapelco and back, including local airport tax.
· All rod fees and guide expenses, fishing license, etc.
· One dedicated guide with English knowledge per each two anglers. Vans for traveling to and from fishing locations, boats if needed on lakes.
· Hard to believe fishing stories and bad jokes

It does not include:

· Air fare to Buenos Aires and back
· Ezeiza airport tax (currently US$31,50)
· Hard liquor. Recommend you bring your favorite libations.
· Expenses of a personal nature such as laundry, phone calls, etc.
· Emergencies or additional expenses for changes in itinerary due to causes out of my control.
· Fishing equipment.
· Medical Services. (Insurance available upon request.)

Fees

Fishermen

US$ 4450,00 per person, double occupancy

Non-Fishing Spouses

US$ 3990,00 per person, double occupancy

Reservations and Confirmations


I have reserved room for eight people in our group. The lodge can accommodate only 16 guests at a time out of which only 12 can be fishermen. Please be aware that this is a very excusive and special place with very high demand from fishermen the world over. I have been present when space was denied to Ted Turner, Allen Greenspan and the US ambassador to Argentina. We need to commit by early March in order for them to hold the reservations. Let me know of your intentions to come along as soon as possible so I can best administer the available spaces.

In order to confirm your reservation, I need to receive from you a non-refundable deposit of US$2000,00 per person by the 15th of March. The balance is due on August 31.

Options

Changes and Alternatives

In order to be able to control the coordination of the group and insure the quality of the experience, I would prefer not to accommodate any changes on the schedule and planned activities on the trip down. However, once we are done fishing, some of you may choose to open the plan to several optional activities. For example, stay in the area and travel to Bariloche for sightseeing, remain a few more days in Buenos Aires for sightseeing or shopping or whatever suits your fancy. I will be glad to provide alternatives and options. Contact me separately for details.

Flies


The key to catching fish is in presenting the flies that represent the food that trout are eating at the time. Each year different flies will be hot. For this reason, besides the assortment that is listed in the Equipment recommendations, I suggest that you purchase an assortment of the flies that the people at the lodge recommend. They will put together a selection that will make the most of your money. I highly recommend making this optional investment of US$100. Please let me know at the time of reservation if you want this so they can include our order with their fly tiers at the end of this year’s season (April).

Beginners

If…

You have never fished before.

Or

You have never fly-fished before.

Or

You have never fly-fished for trout before


This is NOT a problem. Many of my friends (Fernando, Felipe, Hermann, Anibal, Freddy, Guille, Juan Pablo) started fishing and/or fly-fishing in just such a trip before. All had a great time. All caught plenty of fish. All loved the experience and returned again at a later time or regularly. It is like learning to play baseball in Yankee Stadium. There is no better place to learn. The guides are didactic and very helpful. They are great teachers and have plenty of patience with beginners. Casting lessons are included.

So you don’t have the necessary equipment? Not a problem either. Good equipment is not necessarily expensive and what you need are a few basic things. In the many years taking beginners, I have developed a guide to the things you need and will me more than happy to address the needs of each of you individually to make sure you will have a complete pleasurable experience.

See the section titled Equipment for a list of necessary items.

Important Information

Weather

Most days in B.A. will be warm and sunny. It will be mostly warm in Patagonia but there is a high probability of strong breezes which calls for warmer clothing. It is possible that it will rain while you are out in the country so a light rain jacket is a must. Sometimes it can get quite cold early in the morning and late evening. They have had snow suddenly in the middle of the summer. While you are fishing dress in layers that you can take off if it gets warm but will protect you in cold fronts.


Currency

US$ or travelers' cheques are accepted or exchanged easily. Personal checks from US banks are accepted as payment for guides and services. US$ cannot have any markings, smudges or tears whatsoever if they are to be exchanged for local currency.

Travel Information

You must have a valid passport. A tourist visa is not required for Argentina. You will arrive at Ezeiza Airport. We will leave to go south from a different airport. Chapelco or Bariloche in about 2 ½ hours from Buenos Aires by jet. Depending on the arrival airport, two to four hours ride in comfortable vans take you to the lodge.


Accessibility

Mercifully there are no phones on the streams. However, the lodge has limited phone service to be used only in case of true emergencies. Most of the day you will not be near a phone but will be within contact by the outfitters radio based communications in case of emergencies.

Facilities

Hosterias provide very comfortable accommodations. Rooms are doubles with single beds designed to accommodate two fishermen. Private baths, hot water. No luxuries but great service. Electricity is 240 volts, available until 10:00 PM when they change to 12 volts DC for night lighting.

Stream Etiquette

We will be fishing catch-and-release only waters. You will learn how to treat and release fish to reduce the possibility of injuries. Take your pictures quickly and revive your catch thoroughly before releasing it. You are not allowed to kill any fish. Please do not put your guide in a compromising situation about this. Follow the instructions from your guide particularly regarding the pools assigned. In the very unlikely event of running into other fishermen, do not leap frog ahead of them in the stream. Consult your guide.


Daily Program

Usually the day starts with a full breakfast at 7:30 AM. You will travel to the fishing area, and fish till 1:00 PM. The fishing runs assigned for the day are reserved by the guides to avoid other fishing parties. Lunch is by the riverside or at the Hostería, depending where you are fishing for the day. After a well deserved rest you resume fishing at about 3:00 PM until dark (aprox. 8:00 PM). Then you return to the Lodge for showers, drinks and dinner. You're in bed, comfortably tired and half drunk by 11:00 PM.


Wildlife

There are no mosquitoes or bugs on the rivers. The barren landscape and high rocky cliffs are a sight to behold. Lots of wild birds including Arctic swans, ducks, eagles and if you are lucky and observant, an occasional condor can be seen in the high mountain tops. The great red stag, a European import, thrives in the high grounds. They can occasionally be seen or heard during the rutting season. The pine forests and wooded areas hold wild boars.

Attire

Please pack light, dress at the Lodge is informal. You will need your clothing and a hat (not baseball cap). Include rain jacket, comfortable shoes and plenty of fresh socks. Whickering socks and underwear will contribute greatly to you comfort. Dress in layers so you can accommodate changes in weather. Make sure you take all medications that you may require. Medical help is limited.

The Region and Rivers

Patagonia's Northern Fishing Zone lies on the foothills of the Andes in the Province of Neuquen, a good two hour flight time from Buenos Aires. The small airport at Chapelco serves both San Martín de los Andes, well known as a top skiing resort in the winter, and the small town of Junín de los Andes which claims to be the Trout Capital of Argentina.

The geography is open grasslands in great expansive valleys surrounded by rugged mountains. The Cordillera de los Andes lies to the West along the Chilean and Argentinean divide. This is the region that made Argentine trout fishing famous. You will be fishing the most important rivers in the Zone: Río Malleo, Río Aluminé and Río Chimehuin.

Río Malleo

Like most Argentine trout streams, the Malleo originates in a lake high in the Andean Mountains. Nestled in the folds of dormant Volcán Junín (12390 feet) and surrounded by ancient pine forests, Lake Tromen spills its waters to form the Malleo which then flows east for 50 miles to join the Río Aluminé. Beginning in a densely wooded canyon within the Lanín National Park, it meanders through a beautiful valley populated with araucaras, willows and poplars. Estancia San Huberto dominates the upper reaches of the Malleo and provides an outstanding Hostería that can accommodate 16 persons in pampered surroundings.

Originally a hunting lodge built by the Olsen family some 18 years ago it now caters exclusively to the fly fisherman, providing catch-and-release only waters. Weedless hooks are a kindness to Malleo trout and appreciated by Carlos and Carmen Olsen who care a lot about the quality of the fishing. The river contains both rainbows and browns. It is easily wadeable for most of its course with pebbled bottoms and sandy shoals. The stretch from the first fishable pools near the area of Tres Picos, through the Yellow Bridge, the Canyon and the willows down to the Lodge offers some of the best and most scenic trout waters in the world. From the Hostería down to the bridge on Ruta 23, running north from Junín de los Andes to the town of Aluminé, the river runs through areas easily accessible from the road. Below the bridge and down to the Rio Aluminé, the Malleo passes, on its north side, through a Mapuche Indian Reservation and some impressive scarped peaks with hexagonal basalt monoliths, which reach heights populated by eagles and an occasional Condor de los Andes. This section is more heavily fished than the rest but provides excellent action from smaller trout. There is no better stretch on earth to place a beginner fisherman. The Malleo is without doubt my favorite trout stream.


Río Chimehuin


The legendary Chimehuin begins its life at the historic Boca del Chimehuin in the Eastern tip of Lake Huechulaufquen, near the Volcán Lanín. The Boca is probably the most famous spot in the lore of trout fishing. Many famous anglers have cast their flies into the gin-clear run that marks the beginning of this river. Many tales and record fish have come out of this truly beautiful spot. The grandfather of Argentine trout fishing, Bebe Anchorena took the record brown in 1961 weighing an incredible twenty four pounds. After running through a narrow gorge known as the Devil's Throat, the river flows through a wide-open valley and divides into several small branches which rejoin just before entering the town of Junín de los Andes. A one restaurant, one gas station town, Junín has a charm of its own. Here, near the river's edge and not four blocks from the town's square, sits the Hostería Chimehuin. Rich in history and fishing tradition, this little old picturesque inn was the meeting place of countless of fishermen through the years. The walls of the tiny dining room are covered with the photographic evidence of the region's legendary fame in trout fishing circles. Brook, Wulff, Schwiebert, Flick, Anchorena and many more will smile at you from behind the fish that did not get away. Below the town the river is strong and difficult to wade except at the very end of the season in years of low water. The crystal clear waters and large clean rocks make it difficult wading for most of its run down to the Aluminé. Chimehuin fishing can be frustrating and exhilarating on the same day. Large browns make their home in the lower stretches, which are reachable only after lengthy rides or walks through the large estancias that hold the properties on both sides of the river. The river itself is breathtaking as it shows the varied colors of the rocky bottom and the rich riparian vegetation along the banks. Flocks of black-necked swans migrating from Antarctica, the largest hares you ever imagined and colorful torrent ducks accompany you along the way.

Río Aluminé

Much bigger than the Malleo, the Aluminé flows south out of a glacial lake of the same name. Its beauty touches more than 100 miles of countryside. It loses its identity at the confluence of the Río Chimehuin becoming the Collon-Cura, flowing gently through a short wide valley to die at the Alicura Reservoir. This vast lake, formed by a recently built dam will eventually fill to a level that will put the Collon-Cura as well as parts of the legendary Chimehuin and Caleufú in the history books as yet another unique trout habitat sacrificed to progress. It is the biggest river in the Northern Zone, receiving as affluents the Quillén, Ñorquinco, Malleo and Chimehuin, and containing a good population of Rainbows and Browns. It is customary to float down the river, stopping to fish the better runs and covering much of its fishable waters. Open stretches and exposed wide runs make for long casts in usually windy conditions. Heavier lines are a must.

Equipment List



I am happy to provide this info to make sure you are equipped properly. This is my standard list for first timers so bear with me on the details.

WADERS: Stocking foot breathable waders with suspenders and belt. Prices range from $120 to $400. You can get a serviceable comfortable wader for around $140.

BOOTS: Felt sole wading boots are a must. Make sure they are comphy as you will live in them for a while. Some of you may prefer felt soles and studs.

CLOTHES: This is the most important aspect. You HAVE to be comfortable to enjoy yourself so it is best to be prepared. Weather can and will be variable. Even though we expect early fall-late summer type weather, rain and high winds are very probable. Also the temperature can drop very fast so the layered approach is best. The van will always be close by and the guides can carry an extra windbreaker during the day. I like flannel shirts, a good rain/wind jacket, a fleece jacket and have a heavy fly-fishing jacket if the cold sets in. For your legs get some fleece pants to put under the waders. Thermal undies of whickering material provide good protections and keep you dry and good heavy socks are a good idea.

RODS: If you are limited to one rod, take a 6 wt. Medium to Fast Action 7½” to 8”. One floating line and one sinking or sinking tip line. If you can manage to take two rods, I would also take a 3 or 4 wt. rod. We will be fishing spring creeks and dry fly waters where a light-weight rod will be a delight to fish. But you also will be needing to throw streamers into lakes and across hefty rivers so a 6 or 7 wt. will be required. A sinking line (I prefer a Teeny 200) is a must to fish lake shorelines and deep runs in order to get your fly down. Most rods in the market are good enough; you don’t have to hock your wife’s jewelry. Only very experience casters can appreciate and use the functionalities and niceties of an expensive rod.
You just need something to get the fly in the water.


REEL: a simple reel with good drag and space for fly line and 150 ft. of backing. A second spool is recommended so you can change from floating to sinking lines readily. How good should the drag be? It depends on how fast you can run in waders!


FLIES: Basic patterns and sizes that you must have (highlighted items means heavy use). You should have at least two of each and perhaps four of the highlighted sizes.

Dry Flies:

Patterns Sizes

Yellow Humpys 16,18
Parachute Adams 16,18,20
Irresistibles 18, 20
Emerger 16,18
Tan Elk caddis 14,16
Caddis emerger 16
Royal Wulff 16, 18
Orange stimulators 8,14
Madame X 8,12
Trude 14

Nymphs

Hare's Ear 14,16
Prince 14,16
Bead Head Prince 14,16
Pheasant Tail 16,18
Bead Head Ph. Tail 14,16
Bead Head Caddis 14
Caddis Larva or pupa 16,18

Streamers

Wooly Bugger black 4,8 (Also in bead heads)
Wooly bugger olive 4,8 (Also in Bead heads)
Muddler Black 6,10
Sculpin 6
Flash Wooly buggers 4,8 Olive or green

And any other thing that you can throw into the drink. Again, I highly recommend that you place an order with the guides down in Patagonia for a hot assortment based on their experience. Besides getting the flies, this commits them to make sure you catch fish and they will provide some flies of their own if necessary to insure that you do.

FLY BOX: Get a good fly box. Because of the wind, it is better to get the ones that have individual compartments for the dry flies and a flat foam part for the streamers and nymphs.

LEADERS: Tapered leaders in 9 ft. Length. Get one 0X, One 3X and One 5X.

TIPPET MATERIAL: A good set of tippet spools in all sizes from 1X down

GLASSES: Polarized glasses are a must. Get polarized covers for your prescription glasses. Also if you have bad reading eyesight as I do, good cheap reading glasses (in case they fall into the drink) are a must. I like the new inserts that you can attach to the inside of your sunglasses to provide a combination that is tailored to your needs. They will have them at the outfitters or a good Drugstore.

VEST: You need to carry the stuff with you. If you do not have a fishing vest, I have a couple of lightly used ones that I can let you use. They may not close on you but will do the trick.

You will also need: LINE CLIPPERS, FORCEPS OR A KETCHUM RELEASE TOOL, DRY FLY FLOATANT (GINK), RETRACTOR REEL OR CLIPS to hang things from your vest.

IMPORTANT: The guides will have their stuff and I have extra of everything so whatever you do not get, we can still get by. Waders, boots clothes and flies you need to have.

Suggested Catalog links:

L.L.Bean
The Fly Shop
Cabela's -- Fly Fishing
Dan Bailey Homepage
Orvis -- Fly Fishing

References

If you are interested the following reference of a past experience can be found at:

http://www.anglingreport.com/field-notes/rafael-morillo.cfm

Coordinates

For those of you that are Google Earth fans, here are the coordinates of some of the places mentioned and that we will be visiting. To download program go Google Earth - Downloads

Sal Huberto Lodge on the Malleo River
39° 44’ 05.98 S
71° 08’ 40.42 W

Lake Tromen
39° 32’ 49.79 S
71° 26’ 02.78 W

Chapelco Airport. The river right next to the runway is the Quilquihue that begins at Lake Lolog
40° 04’ 32.63 S
71° 08’ 24.90 W

Boca del Chimehuin at Lake Huechulafquen where the Chimehuin River starts
39° 48’ 00,60 S
71° 12’ 39.88 W

Junin de Los Andes, Trout Capital of Argentina
39° 57’ 17.63 S
71° 04’ 28.56 W